Showing posts with label best sub $400 projector. Show all posts
Showing posts with label best sub $400 projector. Show all posts

Monday, June 2, 2014

What is the best Home Theater system in terms of sound quality and picture under $1500 each?




elmogunit


So Im getting a home theater but i need to know what the best reciever for 5.1 is or if i even need one if I get the bose 321, the projector type, if bose 321 will work with it and my ps3 and the resolutions must be 1080p. Just about everything you need for a home theater but good quality for low price


Answer
first of all don't buy the bose 321 systems, they are worthless for the price they make you pay. I guess I am not clear on if you are talking about paying under $1500 for a tv and another under $1500 for sound or planning on using the 1500 for everything. in your question you are talking mostly about sound stuff but then you throw in the 1080p resolution, which has absolutely nothing to do with your sound system. It sounds like you are using the 1500 for just the sound system so let me help you out with that. there are two ways that you can look at this, and it will depend on how you want your system to work. I don't know if you were looking at the bose systems because of the fact that it only has two speakers which would mean less wires or what. Personally piece together systems are a lot better system when you consider quality and accuracy of the sound.

here is a good example of a sound system that would be awesome for $1500

-$300 yamaha receiver - 5.1
-Klipsch B-2 bookshelf speakers - $300 per pair
-Klipsch surround speakers (i believe they are the S-1 or S-2 model)
-approx, $200 per pair
-Klipsch center channel approx. $200
-sony 12" subwoofer $200 (klipsch sub would be better, but I am trying to stick to your budget since the klipsch sub is $400 for their 10" size)
-100' spool of speaker wire $30 for offbrand, $60 for monster
-fiber optic cable to go from your ps3 to your receiver for sound $20 for off brand, $40 for monster
-subwoofer cable $15 for off brand, $30 for monster

probably just over $1300 after tax

Front projector:
For your picture if you are doing a front projector, go with a DLP projector first of all, much better for your movies, smoother images, better color accuracy. for your price you would have to go with optoma in order to get a 1080p front projector for $1500, and it would have to be on sale, probably.

Rear projection (LCD or DLP Rear projection)
Sony is all I have to say here, just get whatever 1080p size that you can squeeze into your budget

is plasma better if you dont care about its thickness and energy cost?




Might Guy


i saw 2 60in TVs, one is plasma and the one is LED, the plasma one is like $300 - 400 cheaper. i read some article about plasma vs led, they all say they have pros and cons. but what i see is plasma usually have 600hz while cheaper LED are 120hz. does Hz matters?

also, none of the reviews i read talks about the life span. Usually, which TV has longer life span? from your personal experience or opinion, would get a plasma or a LED? say i am gonna be watching mainly sport and some movies on the TV.



Answer
- Short answer: If you read any article reviews that always recommend Plasma. Plasma has better response times which leads to less ghosting/lag and bundle that with their refresh rates (hz) that also means little/no motion blur for fast moving objects. Most tv manufacturers may not bother with the life span specification because both Plasma and LCD can easily last 10 years (with little quality loss) or 20+ years before quality becomes a factor. The government made manufacturers post a yellow sticker on their tv's stating power consumption and you will see that newer Plasma tv's will probably only cost $50 (6 hours a day every day) more a year than LCD.

- I recommend Panasonic Plasma OR I recommend Samsung LED (better and/or expensive LED may not have the problems stated below because of additional technologies going into them). - http://reviews.cnet.com/best-tvs-picture-quality/
- Input lag for gamers: HD-TV may have more input lag if there is more processing going and how well the TV can process it. Example 1: Most PS3 or Xbox 360 video games are 720p, it would take processing power to upscale it to 1080p for a 1080p HD-TV (unless PS4 or Xbox one video games are 1080p it would be a good idea to get a 1080p HD-TV). Example 2: Interpolation and refresh rates can cause more processing too.ect = Gamer mode can turn off these processes to get less input lag.
- HD-TV viewing distance calculations: http://isthisretina.com/ OR http://www.thx.com/consumer/home-entertainment/home-theater/hdtv-set-up/ OR http://www.sony-asia.com/support/faq/47537 OR http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Optimum_HDTV_viewing_distance
- I am not going to talk about HD-TV features like 3D or smart HD-TV. Im not going to talk about projectors. Im not going to talk about the new OLED (RGB or W) HD-TV's.

- A plasma HD-TV is sometimes called an emissive display, the panel is actually self-lighting for each pixel. The display consists of two transparent glass panels with a thin layer of pixels sandwiched in between. Each pixel is composed of three gas-filled cells or sub-pixels (one each for red, green and blue). A grid of tiny electrodes applies an electric current to the individual cells, causing the gas (a mix of neon and xenon) in the cells to ionize. This ionized gas (plasma) emits high-frequency UV rays, which stimulate the cells' phosphors, causing them to glow the desired color.
= Better contrast = Plasma's have better black levels, but worse white levels. Plasma's are a emissive display which means better brightness accuracy and better color accuracy.
= Better viewing angles = Plasma is a emissive display, it has little/no picture problems when viewed of axis (not directly in front of screen).
= Better for dark-lit rooms, but worse for bright-lit rooms = Plasma's can have screen glare and less contrast and less brightness and faded colors in bright-lit rooms, but they have little/none of these problems in dark-lit rooms. Better and/or expensive Plasma's may use less reflective glass.
= Better response times = Plasma's florescent phosphor coating in each subpixel stops glowing just a few nanoseconds after the electrode turns off (on and off) which means less lag and less ghosting.ect
= Better refresh rates = Plasma's better response times bundled with it's sub-feild drives or focused-feild drives take each of a it's pixel's sub-pixels and flashes it a number of times to create a image, the way Plasma works has little motion blur with sub-feild drives or little/no motion blur (and better brightness control, color quality, contrast.ect) with focused-feild drives. (Plasma can use interpolation for judder too).
= Worse screen size options, and worse weight (thicker), and worse manufacturer choices = Plasma is a emissive display which makes it hard to make a Plasma screen size smaller than 40 inches for HD-TV and you may not find them larger than 70 inches for HD-TV because the power consumption will sky rocket. Plasma's tend to about 10-20 pounds heavier too and are thicker but that can provide better audio quality tho. Main brand Plasma maker is Panasonic or Samsung or LG.
= Worse power consumption, and worse life span, but better burn in, but worse high altitudes = A plasma can cost on average around $50 a year more. A Plasma can easily last 10 years and much more. Newer Plasma's have burn in technologies that make really hard or not possible to have permanent burn in, but there sill a chance you could get temporary burn in (even tho it's harder to do now). Plasma may not work in really high altitudes and if it does the TV would create a buzzing sound.
= Price = Plasma is more expensive to buy than LCD CCFL, but Plasma is less expensive to buy than LCD LED. Plasma does not cost that much to make.

- An LCD HD-TV is sometimes referred to as a transmissive display, the panel has sections of lighting for a section of pixels. Light isn't created by the liquid crystals themselves; instead, a light source behind the LCD panel shines through the display (CCFL LCD or LED LCD). A diffusion panel behind the LCD redirects and scatters the light evenly to ensure a uniform image. The display consists of two polarizing transparent panels and a liquid crystal solution sandwiched in between. The screen's front layer of glass is etched on the inside surface in a grid pattern to form a template for the layer of liquid crystals. Liquid crystals are rod-shaped molecules that twist when an electric current is applied to them. Each crystal acts like a shutter, either allowing light to pass through or blocking the light. The pattern of transparent and dark crystals forms the image.
= Worse contrast = LCD's have worse black levels, but better white levels. LCD's are a transmissive display which means it is edge-lit or full-array-lit and it also uses local dimming (aka backlight-flashing/scanning) which turns off sections of CCFL or LED which means you can get brightness uniformity problems (brightness leaks into areas and you can see the brightness changing to make up LCD's bad contrast and slow brightness changes.ect) which means less brightness accuracy and less color accuracy .ect (Better and/or expensive LCD use LED lights and more emissive local dimming display and more advance technologies to get a picture as good or better than a Plasma).
= Worse viewing angles = LCD uses a CCFL backlight or a LED backlight (transmissive display), and the LCD pixels act like shutters (and the red, green, blue filters), opening and closing to let light through or block it, this shutter effect causes increasing variations in picture brightness as viewers move further off axis (not directly in front of screen) which means you may notice that the picture looks less bright and vivid and you might see slight changes in color too (IPS > TN).
= Worse for dark-lit rooms, but better for bright-lit rooms = LCD's have the most light coming off from their screen which may strain your eyes in a dark-lit rooms, but they have little/no screen glare and little/no picture problems in bright-lit rooms.
= Worse response times = LCD'S liquid crystals take longer to change from on or off (switch around) which means more lag and more ghosting.ect
= Worse refresh rates = LCD's have more worse response times bundled with it's refresh rates which use backlight-flashing/scanning or fake interpolation frames (for judder too) or just repeat the same real frames which help reduce motion blur, but does not eliminate motion blur.
= Better screen size options, and better weight (thinner), and better manufacturer choices = LCD is a transmissive display which makes it easier to make a LCD screen size very small like around 20 inches and you may find them larger than 70 inches because they use less power consumption. LCD's tend to be about 10-20 pounds lighter too and are thinner (edge-lit displays are even thinner) but that can provide worse audio quality tho. Many brands of manufacturer to choice from.
= Better power consumption, and better life span, and little/no burn in, and little/no altitude problems = A LCD or a LED can cost on average around $50 a year less. A LCD or a LED can easily last 10 years and much more.
= Price = LCD LED is more expensive to buy than Plasma, and LCD LED is even more expensive to buy than CCFL LCD. LED and all the advance technologies going into them make cost more to make, but that's why there is budget LCD versions instead.




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Friday, May 23, 2014

what is good resoulution for a hd projecter and is the 2000 LUMENS LCD HD VIDEO PT-LB51U PROJECTOR good?




mainkeegan





Answer
Yes and no. Let's look at this in a bit of detail.

HD means 720 or 1080 resolution, and in projector terms "true HD" is 1080p (1920x1280 pixels, 1080 horizontal lines, progressive).

There are essentially three resolution 'classes' of projector (1280p ($2500+), 720p ($1000+) and sub-720p (<$1000).

If you are looking to make business presentations (e.g. Powerpoint) or gaming a sub-720p projector is fine. But for home theatre you really want a 720p or 1080p model.

Now, brightness is used to indicate whether you can use the projector with ambient light present (or have to use it in a darkened room). 2000 Lumens is a fairly bright projector ... but typically this is the maximum brightness, and when adjusted for home theatre use will be much less. That said, many 1000 lumen projectors are plenty bright enough for use in a darkened room on 100" screens. So, bright is useful to have, but the best picture is always in a dark room and too much brightness can be as bad as not enough.

The Panasonic PT-LB51U is a business class projector. The 1024x768 resolution means it projects an image with an aspect ratio (width to height ratio) of 4:3 ... not 16:9 common today for widescreen movies). This is not bad ... in fact if you favour old movies it can even be an advantage ... but it means that if you project widescreen movies you don't use some of the 768 vertical pixels (they are used for the black bars). So this is a slightly sub-720p projector (although it will accept a 720p or 1080i input, it will have to interpolate this to the available pixels).

The 400:1 contrast ratio is poor. It means that the picture will be somewhat flat and lifeless. For HT use you want a minimum of 2000:1.

The hidden weakness with this projector is likely to be the video processing ... since it's not designed for HT use it is likely poor.

Finally at $800-$900 this is not a great buy for HT.

Have a look at the recommended models at the link ... you can get a true 720p HT projector for about the same price as this Panasonic. In fact the Panasonic PT-AX200U is one of the best 720p projectors out there ... and sells for $1300.

So bottom line, the projector you identified may be a fine business projector, but for HT use it would be borderline ... and you can do better for the price.

Hope this helps.

I was thinking of buying a not-very-expensive "Zoom Box-type" projector. Anyone have any suggestions?




oscar


Looking for a step up from Zoom Box toy, but not wanting to pay with an arm or leg. What's in the ballpark?


Answer
That projector looks horrible and cheap. It only has RCA composite video, which blown up to 60" will look like crap. I have an HD projector and when I first hooked up my PS2 to hit with just regular RCA jacks (composite video...the yellow plug) it looks horribly pixelated and soft on a focus. My screen is 115" so you can see every little pixel blown up. Then I did some research and got component cables for 20 bucks and the picture was 10 times better.

You can get an HD projector for less than a 1000 bucks, which is cheaper than most HD tvs. I have a Mitsubishi HD1000U, which is a native 720p projector with a contrast ratio of 2500:1 and 1500 lumens and it has HDMI, component video, SVGA, S-video, and regular composite video. It was 899 with free shipping from projectorpeople.com. The Mitsubishi won the Editor's Choice Awards for ProjectorCentral.com.

Right now, I watch movies with my HD-upconvert DVD player on a screen that 115" and it's true widescreen and the picture is very clear. I also play my Xbox and PS2 on that same screen and it's amazing.

Getting a projector is a lot of work to set up. You can't watch it during the day because the room has to be pretty dark. I also suggest either buying or building a screen. Screens cost anywhere from 200 to 1000 bucks, you can build one for less than 60 that works just as good if not better. I wouldn't just project the image on a wall unless you just painted it white and there are no holes from pictures or any flaw you can notice, because it will bug you when you're watching a movie. I built one and it was pretty easy.

Also, these projectors have no way of producing sound, so you'll need a receiver with speakers. I'd suggest getting one of those home theater in a box. You can get a pretty decent one for around 400 to 500 bucks. I'd suggest anything by Yamaha. I got a Sony one because it came with a hd-upconvert dvd player. It's the 7000DH and it's pretty good for the money.

Just do your research, because if you do and save your money and get the right components and cables, your home theater will rock. If you don't do the research, you'll get a sub-par system and maybe pay too much for it. My home theater set up, which includes an HD projector, Dolby Digital 5.1 surround sound HTiB (home theater in a box), cable and screen cost me about 1500 bucks, and it's a very good system. I know that's a lot of money, but considering 3 years ago this would have cost 3500 bucks easy.




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Thursday, May 8, 2014

what is good resoulution for a hd projecter and is the 2000 LUMENS LCD HD VIDEO PT-LB51U PROJECTOR good?




mainkeegan





Answer
Yes and no. Let's look at this in a bit of detail.

HD means 720 or 1080 resolution, and in projector terms "true HD" is 1080p (1920x1280 pixels, 1080 horizontal lines, progressive).

There are essentially three resolution 'classes' of projector (1280p ($2500+), 720p ($1000+) and sub-720p (<$1000).

If you are looking to make business presentations (e.g. Powerpoint) or gaming a sub-720p projector is fine. But for home theatre you really want a 720p or 1080p model.

Now, brightness is used to indicate whether you can use the projector with ambient light present (or have to use it in a darkened room). 2000 Lumens is a fairly bright projector ... but typically this is the maximum brightness, and when adjusted for home theatre use will be much less. That said, many 1000 lumen projectors are plenty bright enough for use in a darkened room on 100" screens. So, bright is useful to have, but the best picture is always in a dark room and too much brightness can be as bad as not enough.

The Panasonic PT-LB51U is a business class projector. The 1024x768 resolution means it projects an image with an aspect ratio (width to height ratio) of 4:3 ... not 16:9 common today for widescreen movies). This is not bad ... in fact if you favour old movies it can even be an advantage ... but it means that if you project widescreen movies you don't use some of the 768 vertical pixels (they are used for the black bars). So this is a slightly sub-720p projector (although it will accept a 720p or 1080i input, it will have to interpolate this to the available pixels).

The 400:1 contrast ratio is poor. It means that the picture will be somewhat flat and lifeless. For HT use you want a minimum of 2000:1.

The hidden weakness with this projector is likely to be the video processing ... since it's not designed for HT use it is likely poor.

Finally at $800-$900 this is not a great buy for HT.

Have a look at the recommended models at the link ... you can get a true 720p HT projector for about the same price as this Panasonic. In fact the Panasonic PT-AX200U is one of the best 720p projectors out there ... and sells for $1300.

So bottom line, the projector you identified may be a fine business projector, but for HT use it would be borderline ... and you can do better for the price.

Hope this helps.

I was thinking of buying a not-very-expensive "Zoom Box-type" projector. Anyone have any suggestions?




oscar


Looking for a step up from Zoom Box toy, but not wanting to pay with an arm or leg. What's in the ballpark?


Answer
That projector looks horrible and cheap. It only has RCA composite video, which blown up to 60" will look like crap. I have an HD projector and when I first hooked up my PS2 to hit with just regular RCA jacks (composite video...the yellow plug) it looks horribly pixelated and soft on a focus. My screen is 115" so you can see every little pixel blown up. Then I did some research and got component cables for 20 bucks and the picture was 10 times better.

You can get an HD projector for less than a 1000 bucks, which is cheaper than most HD tvs. I have a Mitsubishi HD1000U, which is a native 720p projector with a contrast ratio of 2500:1 and 1500 lumens and it has HDMI, component video, SVGA, S-video, and regular composite video. It was 899 with free shipping from projectorpeople.com. The Mitsubishi won the Editor's Choice Awards for ProjectorCentral.com.

Right now, I watch movies with my HD-upconvert DVD player on a screen that 115" and it's true widescreen and the picture is very clear. I also play my Xbox and PS2 on that same screen and it's amazing.

Getting a projector is a lot of work to set up. You can't watch it during the day because the room has to be pretty dark. I also suggest either buying or building a screen. Screens cost anywhere from 200 to 1000 bucks, you can build one for less than 60 that works just as good if not better. I wouldn't just project the image on a wall unless you just painted it white and there are no holes from pictures or any flaw you can notice, because it will bug you when you're watching a movie. I built one and it was pretty easy.

Also, these projectors have no way of producing sound, so you'll need a receiver with speakers. I'd suggest getting one of those home theater in a box. You can get a pretty decent one for around 400 to 500 bucks. I'd suggest anything by Yamaha. I got a Sony one because it came with a hd-upconvert dvd player. It's the 7000DH and it's pretty good for the money.

Just do your research, because if you do and save your money and get the right components and cables, your home theater will rock. If you don't do the research, you'll get a sub-par system and maybe pay too much for it. My home theater set up, which includes an HD projector, Dolby Digital 5.1 surround sound HTiB (home theater in a box), cable and screen cost me about 1500 bucks, and it's a very good system. I know that's a lot of money, but considering 3 years ago this would have cost 3500 bucks easy.




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Saturday, March 8, 2014

What is the best Home Theater system in terms of sound quality and picture under $1500 each?




elmogunit


So Im getting a home theater but i need to know what the best reciever for 5.1 is or if i even need one if I get the bose 321, the projector type, if bose 321 will work with it and my ps3 and the resolutions must be 1080p. Just about everything you need for a home theater but good quality for low price


Answer
first of all don't buy the bose 321 systems, they are worthless for the price they make you pay. I guess I am not clear on if you are talking about paying under $1500 for a tv and another under $1500 for sound or planning on using the 1500 for everything. in your question you are talking mostly about sound stuff but then you throw in the 1080p resolution, which has absolutely nothing to do with your sound system. It sounds like you are using the 1500 for just the sound system so let me help you out with that. there are two ways that you can look at this, and it will depend on how you want your system to work. I don't know if you were looking at the bose systems because of the fact that it only has two speakers which would mean less wires or what. Personally piece together systems are a lot better system when you consider quality and accuracy of the sound.

here is a good example of a sound system that would be awesome for $1500

-$300 yamaha receiver - 5.1
-Klipsch B-2 bookshelf speakers - $300 per pair
-Klipsch surround speakers (i believe they are the S-1 or S-2 model)
-approx, $200 per pair
-Klipsch center channel approx. $200
-sony 12" subwoofer $200 (klipsch sub would be better, but I am trying to stick to your budget since the klipsch sub is $400 for their 10" size)
-100' spool of speaker wire $30 for offbrand, $60 for monster
-fiber optic cable to go from your ps3 to your receiver for sound $20 for off brand, $40 for monster
-subwoofer cable $15 for off brand, $30 for monster

probably just over $1300 after tax

Front projector:
For your picture if you are doing a front projector, go with a DLP projector first of all, much better for your movies, smoother images, better color accuracy. for your price you would have to go with optoma in order to get a 1080p front projector for $1500, and it would have to be on sale, probably.

Rear projection (LCD or DLP Rear projection)
Sony is all I have to say here, just get whatever 1080p size that you can squeeze into your budget

is plasma better if you dont care about its thickness and energy cost?




Might Guy


i saw 2 60in TVs, one is plasma and the one is LED, the plasma one is like $300 - 400 cheaper. i read some article about plasma vs led, they all say they have pros and cons. but what i see is plasma usually have 600hz while cheaper LED are 120hz. does Hz matters?

also, none of the reviews i read talks about the life span. Usually, which TV has longer life span? from your personal experience or opinion, would get a plasma or a LED? say i am gonna be watching mainly sport and some movies on the TV.



Answer
- Short answer: If you read any article reviews that always recommend Plasma. Plasma has better response times which leads to less ghosting/lag and bundle that with their refresh rates (hz) that also means little/no motion blur for fast moving objects. Most tv manufacturers may not bother with the life span specification because both Plasma and LCD can easily last 10 years (with little quality loss) or 20+ years before quality becomes a factor. The government made manufacturers post a yellow sticker on their tv's stating power consumption and you will see that newer Plasma tv's will probably only cost $50 (6 hours a day every day) more a year than LCD.

- I recommend Panasonic Plasma OR I recommend Samsung LED (better and/or expensive LED may not have the problems stated below because of additional technologies going into them). - http://reviews.cnet.com/best-tvs-picture-quality/
- Input lag for gamers: HD-TV may have more input lag if there is more processing going and how well the TV can process it. Example 1: Most PS3 or Xbox 360 video games are 720p, it would take processing power to upscale it to 1080p for a 1080p HD-TV (unless PS4 or Xbox one video games are 1080p it would be a good idea to get a 1080p HD-TV). Example 2: Interpolation and refresh rates can cause more processing too.ect = Gamer mode can turn off these processes to get less input lag.
- HD-TV viewing distance calculations: http://isthisretina.com/ OR http://www.thx.com/consumer/home-entertainment/home-theater/hdtv-set-up/ OR http://www.sony-asia.com/support/faq/47537 OR http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Optimum_HDTV_viewing_distance
- I am not going to talk about HD-TV features like 3D or smart HD-TV. Im not going to talk about projectors. Im not going to talk about the new OLED (RGB or W) HD-TV's.

- A plasma HD-TV is sometimes called an emissive display, the panel is actually self-lighting for each pixel. The display consists of two transparent glass panels with a thin layer of pixels sandwiched in between. Each pixel is composed of three gas-filled cells or sub-pixels (one each for red, green and blue). A grid of tiny electrodes applies an electric current to the individual cells, causing the gas (a mix of neon and xenon) in the cells to ionize. This ionized gas (plasma) emits high-frequency UV rays, which stimulate the cells' phosphors, causing them to glow the desired color.
= Better contrast = Plasma's have better black levels, but worse white levels. Plasma's are a emissive display which means better brightness accuracy and better color accuracy.
= Better viewing angles = Plasma is a emissive display, it has little/no picture problems when viewed of axis (not directly in front of screen).
= Better for dark-lit rooms, but worse for bright-lit rooms = Plasma's can have screen glare and less contrast and less brightness and faded colors in bright-lit rooms, but they have little/none of these problems in dark-lit rooms. Better and/or expensive Plasma's may use less reflective glass.
= Better response times = Plasma's florescent phosphor coating in each subpixel stops glowing just a few nanoseconds after the electrode turns off (on and off) which means less lag and less ghosting.ect
= Better refresh rates = Plasma's better response times bundled with it's sub-feild drives or focused-feild drives take each of a it's pixel's sub-pixels and flashes it a number of times to create a image, the way Plasma works has little motion blur with sub-feild drives or little/no motion blur (and better brightness control, color quality, contrast.ect) with focused-feild drives. (Plasma can use interpolation for judder too).
= Worse screen size options, and worse weight (thicker), and worse manufacturer choices = Plasma is a emissive display which makes it hard to make a Plasma screen size smaller than 40 inches for HD-TV and you may not find them larger than 70 inches for HD-TV because the power consumption will sky rocket. Plasma's tend to about 10-20 pounds heavier too and are thicker but that can provide better audio quality tho. Main brand Plasma maker is Panasonic or Samsung or LG.
= Worse power consumption, and worse life span, but better burn in, but worse high altitudes = A plasma can cost on average around $50 a year more. A Plasma can easily last 10 years and much more. Newer Plasma's have burn in technologies that make really hard or not possible to have permanent burn in, but there sill a chance you could get temporary burn in (even tho it's harder to do now). Plasma may not work in really high altitudes and if it does the TV would create a buzzing sound.
= Price = Plasma is more expensive to buy than LCD CCFL, but Plasma is less expensive to buy than LCD LED. Plasma does not cost that much to make.

- An LCD HD-TV is sometimes referred to as a transmissive display, the panel has sections of lighting for a section of pixels. Light isn't created by the liquid crystals themselves; instead, a light source behind the LCD panel shines through the display (CCFL LCD or LED LCD). A diffusion panel behind the LCD redirects and scatters the light evenly to ensure a uniform image. The display consists of two polarizing transparent panels and a liquid crystal solution sandwiched in between. The screen's front layer of glass is etched on the inside surface in a grid pattern to form a template for the layer of liquid crystals. Liquid crystals are rod-shaped molecules that twist when an electric current is applied to them. Each crystal acts like a shutter, either allowing light to pass through or blocking the light. The pattern of transparent and dark crystals forms the image.
= Worse contrast = LCD's have worse black levels, but better white levels. LCD's are a transmissive display which means it is edge-lit or full-array-lit and it also uses local dimming (aka backlight-flashing/scanning) which turns off sections of CCFL or LED which means you can get brightness uniformity problems (brightness leaks into areas and you can see the brightness changing to make up LCD's bad contrast and slow brightness changes.ect) which means less brightness accuracy and less color accuracy .ect (Better and/or expensive LCD use LED lights and more emissive local dimming display and more advance technologies to get a picture as good or better than a Plasma).
= Worse viewing angles = LCD uses a CCFL backlight or a LED backlight (transmissive display), and the LCD pixels act like shutters (and the red, green, blue filters), opening and closing to let light through or block it, this shutter effect causes increasing variations in picture brightness as viewers move further off axis (not directly in front of screen) which means you may notice that the picture looks less bright and vivid and you might see slight changes in color too (IPS > TN).
= Worse for dark-lit rooms, but better for bright-lit rooms = LCD's have the most light coming off from their screen which may strain your eyes in a dark-lit rooms, but they have little/no screen glare and little/no picture problems in bright-lit rooms.
= Worse response times = LCD'S liquid crystals take longer to change from on or off (switch around) which means more lag and more ghosting.ect
= Worse refresh rates = LCD's have more worse response times bundled with it's refresh rates which use backlight-flashing/scanning or fake interpolation frames (for judder too) or just repeat the same real frames which help reduce motion blur, but does not eliminate motion blur.
= Better screen size options, and better weight (thinner), and better manufacturer choices = LCD is a transmissive display which makes it easier to make a LCD screen size very small like around 20 inches and you may find them larger than 70 inches because they use less power consumption. LCD's tend to be about 10-20 pounds lighter too and are thinner (edge-lit displays are even thinner) but that can provide worse audio quality tho. Many brands of manufacturer to choice from.
= Better power consumption, and better life span, and little/no burn in, and little/no altitude problems = A LCD or a LED can cost on average around $50 a year less. A LCD or a LED can easily last 10 years and much more.
= Price = LCD LED is more expensive to buy than Plasma, and LCD LED is even more expensive to buy than CCFL LCD. LED and all the advance technologies going into them make cost more to make, but that's why there is budget LCD versions instead.




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